by Kanimozhi BV | May 5, 2025 | Kettle, Appliances
Boiling the kettle is one of those everyday things I rarely thought twice about—until I started paying closer attention to my energy bills.
That’s when I began to ask myself, how many watts does a kettle use, and how much electricity is this small but mighty appliance actually consuming energy?
In this guide on how many watts does a kettle use, I’ll walk you through everything I’ve discovered—from kettle wattage to energy-saving habits—all tailored to a UK perspective.
Understanding Kettle Wattage – Why It Matters?
What does ‘wattage’ really mean for my energy use?
Wattage is a measure of power—specifically, how much energy an appliance draws to operate.
So when my kettle says it’s 3,000 watts (or 3kW), that means it’s consuming 3,000 joules of energy every second.
Higher wattage means faster boiling, but it also means more energy used in a shorter time.
How is wattage connected to boiling time?
The larger the wattage, the faster the water reaches boiling point. For instance, my 3kW kettle boils a litre of water in about 2–3 minutes.
If I used a 2kW kettle, I’d be waiting longer. Time saved, however, may not always mean money saved.
Why is kettle wattage important in the UK?
In the UK, where electricity prices have become a hot topic, being aware of kettle energy consumption helps me manage my usage better.
Knowing the wattage gives me control—letting me estimate cost per boil and make smarter purchase decisions.
How Many Watts Does a Kettle Use in the UK?
Typical wattage ranges for UK kettles
The vast majority of electric kettles in the UK fall between 2,000 and 3,000 watts. Here’s what I commonly see in shops:
| Type of Kettle |
Typical Wattage |
| Basic electric kettle |
2,000 – 2,400 W |
| Fast-boil kettle |
2,800 – 3,000 W |
| Compact/travel kettle |
600 – 1,000 W |
| Smart kettles |
2,200 – 3,000 W |
How different brands compare?
While most kettles aim for that 3kW sweet spot, some brands offer energy-saving models that operate at slightly lower wattage but with improved insulation or boil-detection tech to conserve power.
Are energy-efficient kettles worth it?
Absolutely.
Though they might cost a little more upfront, kettles with energy-efficient features (like variable temperature control or insulated walls) can reduce your kettle energy consumption over time—especially if you’re a frequent tea drinker like me.
How Many Watts Is a Kettle?
What’s the standard wattage for home kettles?
If you’re wondering how many watts is a kettle, the answer is usually between 2,200W and 3,000W.
That’s standard for UK households, especially where speed and convenience are priorities.
High-wattage vs low-wattage kettles: what suits me?
If I need my cuppa fast and often, I’d go with a 3kW fast-boil model.
If I’m off-grid or want to conserve energy for eco-living, I might choose something closer to 2,200W or lower.
Wattage Comparison of Popular UK Kettles
| Brand & Model |
Wattage |
Notable Feature |
| Russell Hobbs Inspire |
3,000 W |
Fast-boil, energy-efficient |
| Breville Impressions |
3,000 W |
Stylish with rapid boil |
| Swan Travel Kettle |
920 W |
Compact, ideal for caravans |
| Dualit Classic |
2,400 W |
Durable build, traditional look |
How Much Electricity Does a Kettle Use Per Boil?
Let’s break it down
If I boil 1 litre of water using a 3,000W kettle for 3 minutes:
- 3,000W ÷ 1,000 = 3kWh (per hour)
- (3 ÷ 60) hours = 0.05 hours
- 3kWh × 0.05 = 0.15kWh per boil
The average rate of £0.27 per kWh at the UK, that’s:
- 0.15 × £0.27 = £0.0405 or roughly 4p per boil
Using energy calculators to estimate
There are more UK-based electricity cost calculators available online.
I often use them to quickly estimate how much energy my kettle (and other appliances) are costing me over time.
Boiling Cost Table
| Water Amount |
Boil Time (3kW kettle) |
Estimated Cost |
| 250ml (1 cup) |
1 minute |
£0.013 |
| 500ml (2 cups) |
1.5 minutes |
£0.020 |
| 1 litre |
3 minutes |
£0.040 |
| 1.5 litres |
4.5 minutes |
£0.060 |
What Affects a Kettle’s Power Usage?
Water volume
It’s simple: the more water I boil, the more energy I use. So this is why I only fill the kettle with exactly what I need.
Initial water temperature
Water straight from the tap is colder in winter.
That means the kettle works harder to bring it to a boil, using more energy than it would in summer.
Bad habits to avoid
- Re-boiling water multiple times
- Overfilling the kettle “just in case”
- Ignoring limescale buildup, which lowers heating efficiency
Can I Reduce My Kettle’s Energy Consumption?
Absolutely. Here’s how I do it:
- I measure the exact amount of water I need
- I descale my kettle monthly to maintain performance
- I avoid repeatedly re-boiling the same water
What to look for in an energy-efficient kettle?
When I was shopping for a new kettle, I looked for:
- Auto shut-off functions
- Boil-detection sensors
- Thermal insulation
- Variable temperature settings
Top 5 Energy-Saving Kettle Tips
- Boil only what you’ll use
- Choose a kettle with auto shut-off
- Keep your kettle free from limescale
- Opt for a lower-wattage model for occasional use
- Use warm (not hot) tap water when safe
Conclusion: A Little Appliance That Packs a Punch
Now that I know how many watts a kettle uses, I’m much more mindful when I make a brew. It’s usually around 2,000 to 3,000 watts, but the real savings come from how I use it.
By boiling less water, choosing an efficient model, and avoiding bad habits, I’ve trimmed my electricity usage without giving up my tea time ritual.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Is a kettle more efficient than a stove?
Yes—especially electric kettles in the UK, which transfer heat more directly than a hob or microwave.
Not always. While it boils faster, a higher-wattage kettle might not be ideal if you’re trying to be energy-efficient.
I’d say it’s about balancing speed and sustainability.
3. What wattage is ideal for UK homes?
In my experience, a 3,000W kettle is perfect for most UK households.
It strikes the right balance between fast boiling and practicality.
by Kanimozhi BV | Apr 30, 2025 | Wall, Interior
Water leaks that occur behind walls can be a nightmare to identify and fix.
I faced this exact issue in my home, and through trial, error, and expert advice, I managed to trace and solve the problem without tearing down half the house.
In this guide on how to find a water leak inside a wall, I’ll share exactly how I found the leak, the tools that helped, and what to do if you’re dealing with something similar.
Why It’s Important to Find a Water Leak Inside a Wall Early?
Leaks that occur behind walls aren’t always obvious. I learned this the hard way.
By the time I noticed faint water stains near the floor, the internal wall damage was already extensive.
The problem with hidden leaks is that they can silently cause:
- Structural damage to the timber framing
- Plasterboard disintegration
- Electrical hazards if wires are nearby
- Dangerous mould and mildew growth
If a wall leak goes unnoticed for weeks or months, it can lead to repairs that cost far more than the original issue.
How I Noticed the First Signs of a Leak?
My first indication of trouble wasn’t a burst pipe or a flood — it was a subtle, persistent musty smell.
The paint on the lower part of the living room wall started bubbling, and I could hear a faint dripping sound at night when the house was quiet.
Initially, I dismissed it, but when my water bill unexpectedly increased, I knew I had to act.
What Are the Signs of a Hidden Wall Leak?
Based on my experience, here are some red flags that may point to a leak behind a wall:
- Dampness or discoloured patches on the wall
- Peeling or bubbling paint and wallpaper
- Musty or mouldy smells
- Dripping or hissing sounds from the wall
- Unexplained increase in water bills
- Flooring near the wall becoming warped or spongy
Even one of these signs should prompt an investigation. Multiple signs usually confirm the presence of a hidden leak.
I didn’t start by cutting into the wall. Instead, I gathered a few tools to narrow down the location:
| Tool |
Use |
Suitability for DIY |
| Moisture meter |
Measures dampness levels in walls |
Yes |
| Thermal imaging scanner |
Detects temperature differences |
Partially (rental/pro) |
| Water meter monitoring |
Helps confirm ongoing leakage |
Yes |
| Acoustic leak detection kit |
Locates sound from hidden pipe leaks |
No (usually pro use) |
The moisture meter was the most affordable and easiest tool for me. It helped confirm that moisture levels were much higher in one specific section of the wall.
How to Find a Water Leak Inside a Wall? – My Step-by-Step Process
Here’s exactly how I identified the location of the leak without causing unnecessary damage:
Step 1: Visual Inspection
I examined the wall for any visible stains, damp patches, a hole or warped areas.
The area behind the bookshelf felt slightly cooler and looked off-colour — a subtle but telling sign.
Step 2: Checking with a Moisture Meter
I scanned various parts of the wall with a basic moisture meter.
The readings spiked drastically in a particular area, which helped me isolate the problem zone.
Step 3: Water Meter Test
To confirm there was a continuous leak, I turned off all taps and appliances and then monitored the water meter.
The dial was still moving, indicating water loss somewhere in the system.
Step 4: Narrowing Down the Area with Thermal Imaging
I rented a handheld thermal scanner for a few hours. It showed a cooler patch within the wall where water was likely present. This confirmed the moisture meter’s results.
Step 5: Minimal Wall Opening
Only after identifying the likely leak location did I cut into the wall. Behind the plasterboard, a small pinhole leak in a copper pipe had been steadily releasing water.
When I Decided to Call a Professional?
Although I managed to find the leak, repairing the pipe was outside my comfort zone. The leak was near a junction point, and I didn’t want to risk making it worse. I called a licensed plumber who:
- Replaced the damaged section of the pipe
- Sealed the joint to prevent future leaks
- Recommended some insulation to reduce condensation
Calling in a professional helped me avoid a major DIY mistake and ensured the repair would last.
How Much Does Leak Detection and Repair Typically Cost in the UK?
Here’s a breakdown of what I spent and what you might expect to pay:
| Service/Tool |
Estimated Cost in the UK |
| Moisture meter |
£20 – £50 |
| Thermal scanner rental |
£30 – £60 per day |
| Leak detection service |
£120 – £250 |
| Minor plumbing repair |
£150 – £300 |
Prices can vary depending on your location and the severity of the issue, but in most cases, early detection will always save you money in the long run.
What Can Be Done to Prevent Future Leaks Behind Walls?
After fixing the leak, I took a few steps to make sure this wouldn’t happen again:
- I installed smart water leak detectors in key areas of the house
- I scheduled annual plumbing checks with a local plumber
- I made a point to avoid drilling or hammering into walls without first checking for pipes
Preventative action is far cheaper than emergency repairs, and it gives peace of mind.
Final Thoughts on How to Find a Water Leak Inside a Wall
Discovering a water leak inside a wall is stressful, but with the right approach and with the guides help on how to find a water leak inside a wall, it doesn’t have to turn into a full-blown crisis.
My advice is simple: stay alert to early signs like mould or strange sounds, invest in basic detection tools, and don’t hesitate to call in a professional when things go beyond your comfort level.
Taking swift action saved me hundreds in repairs and stopped the damage before it became unmanageable.
Common Questions on How to Find a Water leak inside a Wall
1. Can a water leak behind a wall go away on its own?
No. A leak will continue to cause damage as long as it exists. Even if it seems to dry temporarily, water is likely accumulating deeper within the wall or spreading elsewhere.
2. Does home insurance cover hidden wall leaks in the UK?
It depends on the policy. My insurance covered the resulting damage (like wall repair), but not the cost of locating or fixing the leak itself. Always check your policy details or contact your insurer for clarification.
3. Should I break the wall to find the leak?
Only as a last resort. Try using a moisture meter or thermal imaging first. These tools can narrow down the area and avoid unnecessary damage.
by Kanimozhi BV | Apr 29, 2025 | Refrigerator, Appliances
When I first tried adjusting my fridge, I was surprised by how unclear the temperature dial was. Most fridges don’t show the actual temperature, just a dial marked from 1 to 7.
So I did some digging to answer the question: what is the coldest setting on a fridge 1-7?
Let me walk you through everything I’ve learned, from fridge dial logic to food safety and season-based settings.
Why Fridge Settings Matter More Than You Think?
How Incorrect Settings Can Lead to Food Spoilage?
I used to assume any cool setting was fine — until my milk started going off too quickly. It turns out that an incorrect fridge setting can lead to:
- Faster bacterial growth
- Shortened shelf life of fresh food
- Higher energy consumption
For me, setting the right fridge temperature meant fewer trips to the shop and less food waste.
The Ideal Fridge Temperature in the UK
According to the UK’s Food Standards Agency, a fridge should stay at or below 5°C.
The sweet spot most experts recommend is between 3°C and 5°C. Anything warmer, and there’s a risk of unsafe food storage.
What Is the Coldest Setting on a Fridge 1-7?
If your fridge has a dial from 1 to 7, it might be very confusing for you.
The numbers don’t represent temperature in degrees — they represent cooling power.
Is 1 or 7 the Coldest?
The answer is simple:
7 is the coldest setting
1 is the warmest setting
Turning the dial towards 7 increases the fridge’s cooling power. I use this during hot months or when my fridge is packed with food.
How the Fridge Dial Works?
Fridge dials typically adjust how long the compressor stays on:
- Lower numbers keep it on for a shorter time, making the fridge warmer.
- Higher numbers keep it on longer, making the fridge colder.
That’s how I realised why my lettuce was freezing — I had cranked it to 7 when I didn’t need to.
Fridge Settings 1-7 Explained
What Each Number Typically Means?
Here’s how I interpret the fridge dial:
- 1 – Warmest (approx. 7–8°C)
- 2 – Mildly cool (approx. 6°C)
- 3 – Acceptable (approx. 5°C)
- 4 – Ideal for most usage (approx. 4°C)
- 5 – Cold (approx. 3°C)
- 6 – Very cold (approx. 2°C)
- 7 – Coldest (approx. 1°C or lower)
Which Setting to Use During Summer and Winter?
I adjust based on the season:
- Summer: I set the dial around 5 or 6 to fight higher room temps.
- Winter: I use 3 or 4 to avoid overcooling or freezing certain foods.
Step-by-Step Guide to Adjusting the Dial
This is what I usually do with the setting of the fridge:
- Turn the dial to 4 as this is a safe initial point.
- Make a place for the fridge thermometer on the middle shelf.
- Wait 24 hours and check the temperature.
- Adjust up or down depending on results.
How to Check the Actual Temperature Inside the Fridge?
Don’t rely on guesswork. I always keep a small fridge thermometer inside, placed in the middle (not the door).
It gives an accurate reading to make sure I’m always between 0°C and 5°C.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Setting Your Fridge
Assuming Midpoint Is Always Right
I used to think setting the dial to 4 (the middle) was perfect year-round.
But in summer, this wasn’t enough. I’ve learned to adjust it according to ambient temperature and how full the fridge is.
Ignoring Room Temperature and Fridge Load
External factors make a big difference.
A hot kitchen or a stuffed fridge needs a colder setting, while an empty fridge in winter needs a gentler one to avoid freezing.
Comparison Table: Fridge Dial Settings and Estimated Temperatures
| Fridge Dial Setting |
Estimated Temperature (°C) |
When to Use |
| 1 |
7–8°C |
Too warm – not safe for food storage |
| 2 |
6°C |
Better, but still risky |
| 3 |
5°C |
Acceptable in cooler months |
| 4 |
4°C |
Ideal year-round baseline |
| 5 |
3°C |
Good during summer |
| 6 |
2°C |
Use when fridge is very full or room is hot |
| 7 |
1°C or lower |
Coldest – risk of freezing some items |
Conclusion: Choosing the Right Setting for Freshness and Safety
So, what is the coldest setting on a fridge 1-7? It’s 7 — yet the coldest is not always best.
I now keep mine around 4 or 5, depending on the season and how much food I’ve stored.
Remember:
- Always check the actual temperature with a thermometer.
- Adjust seasonally and don’t overload the fridge.
- A bit of fine-tuning can go a long way in keeping your food safe and fresh.
Related Article: How to Reset Beko Fridge Freezer?
FAQs: Coldest Fridge Settings and Best Practices
1. Should I leave my fridge on setting 7 all the time?
No, setting 7 is the coldest, but it can freeze some foods. I only use it during heatwaves or if the fridge is packed.
2. Is it safe to store meat in a fridge set to 3 or 4?
Yes, if the internal temperature stays below 5°C. I always use a thermometer to confirm this.
3. Why is my food freezing even though my fridge is on setting 4?
It could be due to poor air circulation or the placement of items near the cooling vent. Try moving items and rechecking the temperature.
by Kanimozhi BV | Apr 29, 2025 | Washing Machine, Appliances, DIY Ideas
Opening a Bosch washing machine door sounds simple — until the door jams, the machine won’t unlock after a wash, or worse, an error message appears.
I’ve learned that knowing exactly how to open Bosch washing machine door can save time, prevent damage, and avoid a hefty repair bill. Let me guide you through it step-by-step.
Why Knowing How to Open Bosch Washing Machine Door Matters?
When my Bosch washing machine door refused to open after a cycle, I realised it wasn’t just a minor inconvenience.
A stuck door can mean trapped laundry, possible water damage, or even a faulty lock mechanism.
That’s why understanding the right way to open a Bosch washer door is so important — it keeps my machine and clothes safe.
Understanding the Basics of Bosch Washing Machine Doors
How Does the Locking Mechanism Work?
Most Bosch washing machines use an electronic door lock that stays locked while the machine is operating and during the spin cycle. The door usually remains locked for 2–5 minutes after the cycle ends to ensure all motion inside the washer drum has stopped safely.
When Does the Door Normally Unlock?
Typically, the door unlocks:
- Automatically a few minutes after the cycle completes
- Once the drum has stopped spinning
- After the internal temperature has cooled
If none of these happen, that’s when I know there’s an issue.
How to Open Bosch Washing Machine Door?
When faced with a jammed door, here’s exactly what I do.
Step-by-Step Guide to Opening the Door Safely
- Step 1: Turn off the washing machine and then unplug it.
- Step 2: Wait a few minutes for the internal lock to release naturally.
- Step 3: Gently try pulling the door open.
- Step 4: If it’s still stuck, check for an emergency manual release.
How to Manually Unlock a Bosch Washing Machine Door?
Most Bosch models have an emergency door release hidden behind the lower front panel:
- Remove the lower panel carefully.
- Find the small manual door release cord (usually orange or red).
- Pull the cord gently — this should unlock the door immediately.
If my machine doesn’t have a cord, I usually contact Bosch support before trying anything more forceful.
Common Reasons Why a Bosch Washing Machine Door Won’t Open
When asking myself why won’t my Bosch washer door open, here’s what I found:
Power Failure Issues
If the power is cut off during a cycle, the lock might stay engaged. Restarting the cycle or restoring power often solves it.
Water Still Inside the Drum
If there’s water remaining, the door lock will stay engaged to prevent flooding. In this case:
Door Lock Mechanism Fault
Sometimes the lock itself is broken. In that case, I need professional help to replace the door lock assembly.
What to Do If the Bosch Washing Machine Door Is Stuck?
Emergency Door Release Steps
If the normal methods don’t work, here’s my go-to process:
- Disconnect the machine from the mains.
- Wait at least 5 minutes.
- Use the emergency release cord if available.
- Drain the water manually if the drum is full.
When to Call a Professional
If the door remains stuck after manual attempts, I immediately call an authorised Bosch repair engineer. Forcing the door can break the handle or warp the door frame, making the repair even more expensive.
Troubleshooting Table: Quick Solutions for Different Problems
| Problem |
Possible Cause |
Quick Fix |
| Door won’t unlock after wash |
Normal delay |
Wait 2–5 minutes |
| Door jammed due to power cut |
Electrical failure |
Restart machine / manual unlock |
| Water still in drum |
Drainage issue |
Run drain cycle / manual drain |
| Door lock broken |
Faulty mechanism |
Call a Bosch engineer |
| Door handle broken |
Physical damage |
Professional repair required |
Tips to Prevent Bosch Washing Machine Door Issues in the Future
Regular Maintenance Practices
To keep my Bosch washing machine running smoothly:
Avoid Overloading the Machine
Overloading stresses the lock and can warp the door alignment. I always follow the recommended load size to prevent pressure build-up.
Conclusion – Opening Your Bosch Washing Machine Door with Confidence
Learning how to open Bosch washing machine door has saved me a lot of stress (and wet laundry disasters!). Whether it’s waiting for the lock to release, using the emergency door release, or knowing when to call an expert, I feel confident handling it now.
If you ever find yourself stuck, just remember:
- Stay calm and unplug the machine.
- Use the manual release if needed.
- Seek professional help if things get tricky.
Taking a little time now can save you big problems later!
FAQ On How to Open Bosch Washing Machine Door
1. How do I open a Bosch washing machine door mid-cycle?
You usually can’t open it mid-cycle for safety reasons. Some models allow it briefly after pressing pause, if water levels are low.
2. How to open a Bosch washing machine door without power?
Unplug the machine, open the lower front panel, and pull the emergency release cord to manually unlock the door.
3. How long does a Bosch washing machine door stay locked after a cycle?
The door typically stays locked for 2 to 5 minutes after the cycle ends to allow the drum to stop and water to drain.
by Kanimozhi BV | Apr 28, 2025 | Refrigerator, Appliances
Keeping my fridge at the right temperature isn’t just about keeping food cold — it’s essential for food safety, energy efficiency, and saving money.
But when faced with a dial ranging from 1 to 7, it can be confusing to know what number should my fridge be on. Let’s break it down properly.
Understanding Fridge Temperature Settings – What Number Should My Fridge be on?
Why Does the Fridge Temperature Matter?
The fridge temperature affects how long my food stays fresh and safe to eat.
If the fridge is too warm, bacteria can grow quickly, leading to food poisoning. If it’s too cold, some foods like lettuce and cucumbers might freeze in fridge and spoil.
The Food Standards Agency in the UK recommends keeping the fridge at 5°C or lower. Sticking to the right settings helps me ensure everything stays at a safe, optimal temperature.
What Temperature Should a Fridge Be in the UK?
In the UK, the ideal fridge temperature should be between 0°C and 5°C.
Anything above 5°C can put food at risk. I usually use a simple fridge thermometer to double-check the internal temperature if I’m unsure.
What Number Should a Fridge Be On? – Decoding the Dial from 1 to 7
When I first bought my fridge, I kept wondering what number should a fridge be on.
Many fridges in the UK use a dial numbered 1-7, where the higher the number, the colder the fridge.
It’s important to understand:
- 1 is the warmest setting.
- 7 is the coldest setting.
This simple logic helps me decide how to adjust my fridge depending on the season or how full it is.
Is 1 or 7 Colder on a Fridge?
On nearly every fridge, 7 is colder. Some newer models might show actual temperature readings, but if it’s a dial, higher usually means colder.
Which Number Is the Coldest on a 1-7 Fridge Dial?
Simply put:
7 = Maximum Coldness
1 = Least Cold
Whenever I need the fridge to be extra cold, like in summer or if I have a lot of meat stored, I turn it closer to 6 or 7.
What Is the Best Number to Set Your Fridge On?
What about Recommended Fridge Settings for Different Seasons?
Adjusting the fridge setting based on the season has helped me avoid food spoilage:
- Summer: I go for settings around 5 or 6.
- Winter: I usually set it to 3 or 4.
What are the Factors That May Affect Your Fridge Setting?
Other things that influence the fridge dial include:
- How packed the fridge is: A full fridge needs a stronger (colder) setting.
- Kitchen temperature: Hot kitchens mean I set the dial higher.
- Fridge model and age: Older fridges may not cool as efficiently.
How to Properly Adjust Your Fridge Setting?
What are the Step-by-Step Guide to Setting Your Fridge Temperature?
Here’s my simple method:
- Start with setting the dial at 4.
- Place a fridge thermometer on the middle shelf.
- Check after 24 hours — aim for 0°C to 5°C.
- Adjust the dial one notch higher or lower if necessary.
How to Check If Your Fridge Temperature Is Correct?
The easiest way is using a thermometer. I avoid checking near the door, as it’s warmer there. Consistent readings between 0°C and 5°C mean I’m good to go!
Common Mistakes People Make with Fridge Settings
Setting the Dial Too High or Too Low
I once thought setting it halfway would work year-round. In reality, I learned to tweak it based on the season and load.
Ignoring External Temperatures
A sunny, warm kitchen can warm up the fridge’s exterior. That’s why I adjust the setting in summer without fail.
Quick Comparison Table: Fridge Settings and Temperature Outcomes
| Dial Setting |
Expected Temperature |
Usage Advice |
| 1 |
7°C – 8°C |
Too warm for safe food storage |
| 2 |
6°C – 7°C |
Risk of bacteria growth |
| 3 |
5°C – 6°C |
Acceptable for short periods |
| 4 |
4°C – 5°C |
Ideal setting for daily use |
| 5 |
3°C – 4°C |
Good for warmer days |
| 6 |
2°C – 3°C |
Recommended during summer heat |
| 7 |
1°C – 2°C |
Extremely cold — risk of freezing items |
Conclusion: Setting Your Fridge Right for Food Safety and Freshness
In the end, figuring out what number should my fridge be on isn’t hard once I know the basic rules.
I always aim for a fridge temperature between 0°C and 5°C and adjust according to the seasons and fridge load.
Remember:
Higher number = colder fridge
Lower number = warmer fridge
By setting my fridge correctly, I keep my food fresher, longer, and safer.
Related Article: How to Defrost Fridge Freezer Without Turning it Off?
